Arancini--Savory and Sweet

ARANCINI--SAVORY and SWEET

When Vince Scordo (http://networkedblogs.com/2YKNn) suggested we declare May 1^st National Arancini Day, I immediately voted YES! Great idea to honor the deliciousness of arancini! After all, what's not to love? Crispy-crunchy outside, creamy-cheesy middle, and between the two extremes—risotto, one of the signature dishes of Italian cuisine.

Before I could get started, my mind took a side trip—not an unusual phenomenon--to a dolce place. I had this urge to try a sweet risotto, and then use the risotto to make Dolce Arancini. And the experimenting began...

The Dolce Risotto, made with coconut milk, fresh orange juice and zest, and dates, was delicious and took warm breakfast cereal to a new level. So delicious, in fact, that I was sure it would make a good dessert. I was twittering about my experiment, when a new twitter-friend from Asheville, NC, Jean Sexton (http://locavore4lore.wordpress.com/) , sent me a website (http://www.accessatlanta.com/atlanta-restaurants-food/food-jars-create-the-497794.html) about the trendy layering of sweet and savory offerings in little mason jars. I pulled an empty jelly jar from under the cabinet, filled the bottom with the warm dolce risotto, topped it with sweetened whipped cream, and garnished with more almond slices and orange zest: PERFECT! It immediately transformed into a beautiful dessert that tasted just as lucious as it looked!

Next I chilled some of the sweet risotto and made rice balls, about one-eighth cup each. I filled each one with a cube of Brie, and after frying, rolled them around in cinnamon sugar and orange zest. Surely you must be tasting what I'm talking about! Breaking through the wonderful crispy cinnamon crust led to warm, sweet risotto, and finally to the center with soft, melted Brie. Flavor and texture levels all over the place.

I was on a happy, sweet high when I started the savory risotto dish. I had Pesto Sausage from Creminelli Fine Meats ( http://www.creminelli.com/) on hand. I knew it would make a fabulous risotto, but I had no idea HOW fabulous. The truth is, the sausage is so well seasoned that the risotto required no extra seasoning at all. I've tasted many great Italian sausages, and this is absolutely the best.

It was one of those days when everything seemed to work—of course it worked—it was National Arancini Day! And this Pesto Sausage Risotto was headed toward arancini to top all arancinis! Each rice ball was stuffed with a cube of mozzarella. After the crispy coating and frying, I served the arancini with fresh basil pesto. It could be that I have never, ever tasted anything more delicious. Everything was perfect—the Creminelli sausage, the resulting risotto, the melted mozzarella, and the fresh basil pesto—I wouldn't change a thing!

While there may have been a small number of people celebrating National Arancini Day this May 1^st, I would encourage everyone to be practicing and preparing for next year. I think we're off to a good start. Let's make May Day-Arancini Day an annual event!

Savory Arancini

Pesto Sausage Arancini

2 cups Pesto Sausage Risotto*

12 cubes mozzarella

One-half cup all purpose flour

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup seasoned bread crumbs

Canola Oil for frying

Fresh basil pesto, to serve

Divide cold risotto into about 12 one-eighth cup pieces. Place a cube of mozzarella into each, and roll between your palms into balls.

Heat oil in heavy pot to 350 degrees. The oil should be about two-three inches deep. I use a small, deep pot and only fry two or three rice balls at a time.

Roll each rice ball in flour, dip in beaten egg, and then roll in bread crumbs.

Slip into heated oil, and let fry for 3-4 minutes, turning a couple of times with a wooden spoon. The rice balls should be browned and crispy on the outside, and cook long enough to melt the cheese.

Remove from oil and briefly drain on paper towels.

Serve immediately with fresh basil pesto.

*Pesto Sausage Risotto

2 T butter

2 T extra virgin olive oil

1 small sweet onion, diced

One-half pound Pesto Sausage, removed from casing and diced

1 cup Arborio rice

Three-fourths cup white wine, room temperature

3 cups chicken broth, warmed to a simmer

12 cherry tomatoes, quartered

1 cup shredded Parmesan cheese

One-fourth cup fresh basil chiffonade

Add butter and olive oil to medium sized pan over medium-low heat.

Add onion and sausage and saute until onion is soft and transparent, and sausage is browned.

Add rice, stir to combine and cook for 1-2 minutes, to coat rice well and slightly toast.

Add wine, stirring until wine is nearly absorbed. Then begin adding chicken broth, about three-fourths cup at a time, until rice is al dente with creamy consistency.

Remove from heat and stir in the tomatoes and parmesan cheese. Cover and let rest for a few minutes. Just before serving, stir in fresh basil.

Dolce Arancini

Dolce Arancini with Brie

2 cups sweet risotto*

12 cubes Brie

One-half cup all purpose flour

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup plain bread crumbs (like panko)

Vegetable oil for frying (I used canola)

Cinnamon sugar with orange zest (this was a good accident—I left some orange zest on a saucer over night, it dried, and I mixed it into the cinnamon sugar)

Divide risotto into 12 equal sized rice balls. Place a piece of brie in the center of each, and roll between your palms to close.

Heat oil in heavy pot to 350 degrees. The oil should be about two-three inches deep. I use a small, deep pot and only fry two or three rice balls at a time.

Roll each rice ball in flour, dip in beaten egg, and then roll in bread crumbs.

Slip into heated oil, and let fry for 3-4 minutes, turning a couple of times with a wooden spoon. The rice balls should be browned and crispy on the outside, and cook long enough to melt the cheese.

Remove from oil, drain on paper towels, and roll in cinnamon sugar with orange zest.

Enjoy while warm.

*Sweet Risotto

2 T butter

2 T extra virgin olive oil

1 Cup Arborio rice

Three-fourths cup sparkling white grape juice

1 (14 oz.) can lite coconut milk

zest of one orange

1 cup fresh orange juice

pinch of salt

1 cup finely diced dried dates

One-half cup thinly sliced almonds

One-half cup shredded parmesan cheese

1 tsp. Cinnamon

Honey to taste

Add butter and oil to medium sized saute pan over medium-low heat. When heated, add rice, and cook, stirring for about two minutes, to coat rice. Add grape juice, stirring occasionally until most is absorbed. Meanwhile, heat coconut milk, orange zest & juice and salt in small saucepan just to a simmer. When rice has absorbed grape juice, begin adding the warmed coconut milk and orange juice about one-half cup at a time, stirring until nearly absorbed. Continue adding liquid until rice is al dente with creamy texture.

Add dates, almonds, parmesan cheese and cinnamon. Stir well to combine, taste, and add honey if more sweetness is desired. Cover and allow to rest for five minutes.

Serve as is, garnished with extra almonds and chopped dates.

Or for a dessert course, serve in little mason jelly jars, topped with a layer of whipped cream and garnished with sliced almonds and orange zest.

Asparagus Benedict Risotto Cakes

Leftover Risotto? Probably not. You may have to make risotto with this recipe in mind. However, I always try to make a little extra thinking about the possibility of a delicious meal the next day. This is a great spring version taking advantage of the beautiful, locally grown asparagus that's available this time of year. Mushroom risotto would be equally delicious, or pea, or artichoke—be creative—I really can't think of a bad choice!

This can be served as is for a lovely breakfast, or add baby mixed greens under the risotto cake for brunch or a light dinner.

8 Asparagus Risotto Cakes (from leftover Spring Asparagus Risotto*)

Reserved Blanched Asparagus Tips for garnish

1 cup Hollandaise-like Dressing

8 Poached Eggs

Shaved Fresh Parmesan

Crispy Pancetta

Traditional risotto* made with sauteed asparagus stems, white wine, broth, and finished with butter and parmesan cheese.

Reserved Asparagus Tips

When making risotto, remove asparagus tips and blanche in broth. Drain and set aside, or refrigerate, until ready to garnish.

Pancetta

8 serving sized pieces of pancetta, diced. Saute until crispy, drain to remove excess oil.

Asparagus Risotto Cakes

Traditional risotto made with sauteed asparagus stems, white wine, broth, and finished with butter and parmesan cheese. Refrigerate for several hours, or overnight. Form into patties (about 1/3 cup each) and saute on both sides in butter, just until outside is browned and inside is warmed through. (When you put patties into hot butter, don't disturb them until they move on their own to get a nicely browned crust.)

Hollandaise-like Warm Dressing

4 egg yolks

1 T lemon juice

One-half cup olive oil

1 tsp. Dried Herbs de Provence

salt and pepper

In a double boiler, bring water to a gentle boil, add egg yolks and lemon juice to top pan. Whisk over hot water until yolks turn a paler yellow and become creamy(three or four minutes). Remove from heat, and whisk in oil. Add herbs, and salt and pepper to taste.

Pour into an insulated thermos-like coffee cup with lid, and close to keep warm until eggs and risotto cakes are ready (or, you can pour warm dressing into a cup and sit cup in a pan of very warm water).

Poached Eggs

Fill deep pan with one inch of water. Add 1 tablespoon white vinegar and bring to a gentle boil. Slip 4 eggs into gently boiling water. Reduce heat to simmer. Poach about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove eggs to ovenproof warmed dish greased with melted butter, and cover. Set aside while poaching remaining eggs. When all eggs are poached, add to buttered warm dish and cover until ready to serve.

Place warm risotto cake on serving plate. Top with warm poached egg. Add asparagus tips, and then dressing Finally, garnish with pancetta and shaved parmesan cheese.

*ASPARAGUS RISOTTO

2 cups Arborio rice

4 T olive oil

4 T butter

1 large sweet onion, chopped

1 cup dry white wine

About 6 cups chicken broth

16 asparagus spears (tips removed for garnish)

Salt and pepper to taste

1 cup parmesan cheese

2 T butter

Sauté onion in oil and butter in large pot over medium heat.

Cut tips from asparagus and boil until ‘al dente’ in lightly salted water, about 5 minutes. Reserve tips.

Dice asparagus stems and add to onion. Cook until tender.

In separate medium sized sauce pot heat chicken broth just to a simmer.

Add rice to butter, oil, sautéed onions and asparagus stems and stir until rice is well coated with oil, about 2 minutes.

Add wine to rice and stir to combine. Let simmer until most of the wine is absorbed. Begin adding warm broth one cup at a time, stirring occasionally. Continue to add one cup of broth at a time, stirring and letting the broth be absorbed before adding the next cup of broth. Enough liquid has been added when rice has a tiny firmness in center of grain, but most of grain has softened. This takes about 18 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

When rice is done, remove from heat. Stir cheese and 2 tablespoons butter into rice. Cover and let rest for maybe five minutes. Serve garnished with asparagus tips and extra shaved parmesan cheese.

(8 servings)

Spring Risotto

Some people find risotto mysterious, but it's a mystery well worth solving! The white rice we serve as a vehicle for our gravies and stews, it is not. Risotto rice is a different grain, round and of medium length. My Tuscan friends recommend the Carnaroli brand, but it's easier to find Arborio here. Both have shorter, rounder grains that are able to absorb more liquid, and when cooked properly take on a creamy texture while retaining a firm 'bite' in the center.

Risotto is generally a meal unto itself. Varying herbs, vegetables, and sometimes meats can take this dish through a kaleidescope of flavors, but a few things are always constant: begin with butter and extra virgin olive oil in which the rice grains are 'toasted'; next, wine is absorbed into the rice; and then the broth addition begins with patient stirring. At the final stage parmesan cheese and a little butter are added before serving.

When I think about risotto, I'm reminded of one of my favorite meals in Tuscany. On a lovely spring day we sat on the terrace overlooking a hillside of olive trees and grapevines, their new growth adding layered shades of color to the landscape. We were served a delicate spring asparagus risotto, brightened with the addition of lemon zest, and further flavored with a crisp white wine and parmeseano regiano. This was the perfect spring meal with light, delicate flavors as refreshing as the seasonal breeze.

Tuscan food is all about simplicity and serving the fresh, locally available ingredients. I have to remind myself of this lesson from time to time: simplicity and freshness are always best. When I stray too far from that mantra, I usually have to step back and start over. That doesn't necessarily infer quick preparation. The Italian grandmother doesn't mind the work of stirring the risotto, cutting the vegetables, grating the cheese, taking the time to give each ingredient its proper respect. Patient preparation, and then spending communal time at the table is all part of the experience of the food.

I'm giving you lots of tips, and probably more information than you need, but I'm hoping you'll read through the following recipe, keeping in mind that with a salad and some crusty bread, it is a complete meal. The most labor intensive part of this entire recipe is peeling the shrimp. You can prepare the shrimp dish ahead of time and refrigerate until ready to bake, remembering to add a little baking time if it has been refrigerated. Or eliminate the shrimp addition all together and make only the asparagus risotto. Either way, you won't be disappointed.

Enjoy a glass of wine and some good music while you're cooking, and celebrate your time as well as your food when you're around the table with friends!

Risotto Tips:

Making the perfect risotto does take some practice. Once you know the consistency you want to achieve, you're more than half way home. I've read there are no short cuts to a good risotto, and it's true that a certain amount of stirring and attention are required. My friends in Tuscany who grew up making risottos with their 'nonas' offered some tips. They use a wider bottomed pan, spreading the rice over a larger surface, making the perfect risotto much easier to achieve, and even a little quicker, without constant stirring. Always use a wooden spoon! When toasting the rice, it will reach an opaque stage with still a solid dot in the center. They claim you can hear a sound, called 'tostatura', to let you know when this stage is complete. Wine should be at least room temperature if not warm, and the broth simmering when adding to rice. As you add the broth, don't let the previous liquid be completely absorbed before adding more (nearly, but not completely). Finally, after adding cheese and butter, cover and let rest for a couple of minutes before serving. You can add just a little more broth at the end if needed to loosen the consistency.

Spring Risotto with Asparagus

(Serve with Shrimp with Lemon Shallot Butter*)

6 servings

(Prepare shrimp first so you can use the broth when preparing the risotto.)

*Shrimp with Lemon Shallot Butter

2 lbs. Large shrimp, in the shell

1 T seafood seasoning (I use Chesapeake Bay Style Seafood Seasoning by Blue Crab Bay Co.)

1 tsp. Salt

Zest and juice of 2 lemons

2 tsp. Dried Tarragon

2 shallots, finely minced

One-half tsp. Salt

One-eighth tsp. Dried red chilli flakes

1 stick butter, melted

One-half cup panko bread crumbs, plus two T finely chopped pecans

Fill a large nonstick skillet (I use a 12 inch diameter pan with 3 inch sides for cooking shrimp and risotto) with water. Add seafood seasoning and salt and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. When boiling, add half shrimp, cover, and boil for one and a half minutes. Remove shrimp with slotted spoon to bowl of ice. Add remaining shrimp to pan and repeat. Strain cooking liquid into sauce pan and set aside (SAVE BROTH). Remove shrimp from ice bath and peel, throwing shells away.

Mix zest and lemon juice, tarragon, shallots, salt, dried chilli flakes and butter. Place half the shrimp into medium sized buttered casserole. Generously brush shrimp with the lemon/butter mixture. Top with half the panko. Repeat shrimp layer and brush with butter mixture. Mix remaining panko with remaining butter mixture and spread evenly over shrimp.

Bake at 325º for 25 minutes. (Bake while making risotto.)

Spring Risotto with Asparagus

2 bunches small new asparagus

1 medium sweet onion, diced

2 cups Arborio (risotto) rice

3 T butter, plus 1 more tablespoon

3 T extra virgin olive oil

1 cup crisp white wine (I use Pino Grigio), room temperature

Zest of one lemon

~ 6 cups broth (I use shrimp broth mixed with vegetable broth, but you can use prepared chicken or vegetable broth)

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

For broth:

2 stalks celery, with tops, roughly chopped

1 onion, quartered

3 large Parsley sprigs

1 tsp. salt

Break asparagus and set aside tender stalks with tips.

Add 6 cups water to medium sauce pan over medium-high heat. Add celery, onion, parsley, salt and the tough asparagus ends to water. Simmer for 30 minutes (or more). Remove vegetables from broth with slotted spoon, and discard, SAVING BROTH.

Cut tips from tender ends of asparagus, and add tips to broth over medium heat. Simmer for 3-4 minutes, just until tender. Remove asparagus tips with slotted spoon to ice bath, cool, remove from ice bath and set aside.

Add reserved shrimp broth to vegetable broth and keep at a low simmer.

Finely dice remaining raw asparagus stems.

Add 3 tablespoons butter and olive oil to large, heavy skillet (~12x3) over medium heat. Add diced onion, and when becoming translucent, add finely diced stems of asparagus. Cook until tender.

Add rice and stir until rice is nicely coated and mixed with vegetables. Continue to stir for a minute or two, and then add wine. Stir until wine is nearly all absorbed by rice. Add lemon zest, and about one cup of simmering broth. Stir occasionally until broth is nearly absorbed, and add another cup of broth. Repeat the process until rice is of proper consistency, and most of broth has been added. Rice should be tender on the outside with just a tiny 'bite' left on the inside. This takes about 16-18 minutes.

Remove from heat and add one tablespoon butter, and parmesan cheese, and stir vigorously to combine. Add a little more warm broth if needed. Risotto should have a creamy, almost soupy consistency while retaining that tiny little 'bite' in the center of the grains. Cover and let rest for a couple of minutes. Add asparagus tips just before serving with baked shrimp.

(Note: seafood risottos generally omit cheese, but the parmesan cheese in this recipe combines beautifully with the baked shrimp.)